Proenza Schouler

The Vault

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are the power duo behind the New York label, Proenza Schouler. The name "Proenza Schouler" was created by merging their mothers’ maiden names to form one name.

Hernandez and McCollough attended and met at Parsons School of Design. During their time at Parsons, Hernandz interned at Michael Kors and McCollough interned at Marc Jacobs. As their senior thesis, they chose to work together to create their first ever, complete collection. The first collection was a brilliant production and was bought in its entirety by Barneys New York.

Officially established in 2002, Proenza Schouler quickly became an renowned womenswear and accessories label. Almost immediately upon Proenza Schoulers' entrance into the fashion industry, they were already racking up prestigious awards such as the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2004 and the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2007.

The Valuables 

Two key elements to help identify an iconic Proenza Schouler design.

1. "Lady-like cool" -American Vogue

Spring 2011 Runway, vogue.com

2. Well tailored, well stitched, perfect cuts and seams

Fall 2008 Runway, vogue.com

The Lock

What can we expect from Proenza Schouler for Fall 2011?

Hand painted and hand embroidered textiles inspired by Native American artwork. Color palette reflecting a warm desert sunset and earthen dyes, hues of deep scarlet and glowing orange to indigo and oasis blue.  The bodies of the garments tend to be more loose and relaxed then from seasons past. “The clothes and fabrics are super technical, so we wanted the silhouettes to be the opposite" - Lazaro Hernandez, Vogue.com.

Fall 2011 Runway, vogue.com

The Key 

Proenza Schouler for Target

style.com

Proenza Schouler are privileged to be one of the few great designers that have created capsule collections for Target. Debuting in February of 2007, Proenza Schouler created a fun, California-vibe collection in striking colors and interesting silhouettes. In my opinion, their high fashion style was not compromised for this mass market collection.

A few looks from the Proenza Schouler for Target Collections, target.com

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera

The Vault

Carolina Herrera was born in Caracas, Venezuela on January 8, 1939. Chaperoned by her grandmother at the age of 13, Herrera attended her first couture fashion show (Cristobal Balenciaga). 

Coming from a dignified and fairly well-off background, Herrera was exposed to many talented individuals such as Andy Warhol or  Diana Vreeland, whom provided her with the encouragement and guidance to start designing.

In 1980, Herrera produced her first "test" collection which created quite a buzz. In response to the ample amount of positive feedback, Hererra moved her family to New York a year later and established her self-named brand, Carolina Herrera, Ltd. In 1987, she began experimenting with bridal wear which led to the opening of her first flagship store on Madison Avenue in 2000.

With intentions to expand her brand, Herrera created a successful diffusion line in 2002, "CH Carolina Herrera". This line includes a small collection of fragrances, handbags, shoes and even a menswear line.

Carolina Herrera has created a chic and sophisticated lifestyle brand that has captured the interest of many specialty stores and refined uptown women. "The label is known for timeless ensembles for ladies who lunch and celebs who crave a touch of class." -nymag.com 

The Valuables 

Two key elements to help identify an iconic Herrera design.

1. An exuberance of sophistication and elegance

Spring 2010 Runway, vogue.com

Fall 2010 Runway, vogue.com

2. Tasteful and flattering tailoring and color palette

Fall 2007 Runway, vogue.com

Spring 2011 Runway, vogue.com

The Lock

What can we expect from Carolina Herrera for Fall 2011?

 “How to Stay Inspired: Ignore the question ‘What’s the point?’ Look at beautiful things.” "-Vogue.com's finding of a note on a Carolina Herrera moodboard. 

Carolina has never been one to shock the fashion industry with quirky trends. Instead she sticks to classic, straightforward beauty. No gimmicks.  

Clean cut, tailored trousers and skirts. Touches of beading and fur, nothing overdone.  Very muted color palette but striking patterned fabrics. Classic bodies but enough interest and jolt to still be innovative and modern. Well done Herrera. 

Fall 2011 Runway, vogue.com

The Key 

A quick Carolina Herrera Fragrance time line...

 

Fragrance is a major concentration within Carolina Herrera aside from her beautiful apparel collections. 

To name a few...

In 1988 Herrera launched her first fragrance which consists of "a heady and romantic blend of the tuberose and jasmine essences she had always worn"- infomat.com.

In 1991 "Carolina Herrera for Men" debuted; In 1994, Herrera debuted her third scent the floral Flore; and in 1996, a light version of Flore debuted reigning the name Aqua Flore.

As for her "212 Men" fragrance line, you may find sensual, transparent and woody notes, mixed with hints of citrus, sandalwood, amber and white musks. "It is a reflection of the charming cosmopolitan man about town, forever savvy and debonair, and every woman's ideal."-infomat.com

 

Virginia Tech Undergraduate Research & Creative Scholarship Symposium- BEST EXHIBITION

 

The Fashion Designer Vault Blog and Publication was awarded "Best Exhibition" at the 2011 Virginia Tech Undergraduate Research & Creative Scholarship Symposium on Thursday April 7, 2011. 

Prada & Miu Miu

The Vault

Does it take a woman who never wears jeans to build a brand valued at $2 billion? 

Miuccia Prada, granddaughter of founder Mario Prada, took over the company in 1978. Prada began as a fine leather good company in Milan, Italy in 1913 but soon turned into a fashion powerhouse. She began designing in the early 1980's and has produced perfection though fashion ever since. Surprisingly, Miuccia studied political science and then mime at the Piccolo Teatro di Milano, seeking a career in acting. While participating in politics, she also dipped into traditional craftsmanship and fashion design. After taking over her grandfathers company, fashion design took center stage as she began to explore and expand the brand.

"Women are successful designers because clothing today must express what many women deeply feel." -Miuccia Prada; answers.com/prada

Today, Prada is internationally known as one of the most innovative and successful companies of our time. With a cult following of celebrities, honorable mentions in countless films and books and notable awards, Prada is THE collection to watch from season after season to come.

The Valuables

Two key elements to help identify an iconic Prada design.--High Fashion yet so wearable!

1. Ingénue-esque yet sexy

Spring 2010 Runway; vogue.com

Spring 2011 Runway; vogue.com

2. Uber chic, nerd-chic, grandma chic, or minimalist-chic

 

Fall 2010 Runway- "grandma chic"; vogue.com

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Fall 2008 Runway- "minimalist chic"; vogue.com

The Lock
 

What can we expect from Prada for Fall 2011?

Return of the '60s!

Skirt length? four inches above the knee. Drop waist and trouser socks positioned inside block-heeled shoes. 

  

“It was about a lady, getting more innocent.” -Miuccia Prada, vogue.com
 

 Typical school-girl innocence with argyle and checks but as the collection progresses, things get a little weird.  Python and beaver trimmed collars, leather aviation caps, and serpent scaled frocks with serious blow-out hair style caps. 

We will agree with Vogue on this one and call this collection..."offbeat chic".

 

Prada Fall 2011 Runway; vogue.com

  The Key

Sibling brand - "Miu Miu"

Slightly more snazzy than sophisticated; Miu Miu was established in 1992 by Miuccia Prada, owner of the Prada Group. The inspiration behind the name of the sibling label was actually Miuccia Prada’s nickname growing up as a child. Slightly lower price points than Prada, equally as chic. You can find Miu Miu in a number of high-end stores as well as on the runway at fashion week!

Pre-Fall 2011; vogue.com

Resort 2011; vogue.com

Spring 2011; vogue.com

Alexander McQueen

The Vault

Alexander McQueen March 17th 1969- February 11th 2010

DRAMA.

The fashion rebel, Alexander McQueen, dropped out of school when he was 16 years old in order to learn the skillful art of fashion design. It was at Savile Row where he tactfully learned to tailor and at Angels and Bermans where he discovered his fondness for costume making. 

Like many of the greatest fashion designers of our time, McQueen too obtained a masters degree at Central Saint Martin in London in 1994. McQueen's designs were phenomenal from the start; His entire graduate collection was purchased by fashion editor, Isabella Blow. In 1996 he landed his first huge position as chief designer at Givenchy where he worked for the next 5 years. 

The Gucci group currently owns 51% of the Alexander McQueen label as of December 2000.
Before McQueens’ untimely death in the spring of 2010, he obtained countless notable awards such as British Menswear Designer of the Year and International Designer for the Year, to name a few.

 
The Valuables

Three key elements to help identify an iconic Alexander McQueen design. 

1. Theatrical

Fall 2008 Runway; Vogue.com

2. Innovative fashion, defying and exaggerating the human silhouette 

Spring 2010 Runway

Spring 2010, google.com

3. "British tailoring with french couture" nymag.com

Spring 2011, vogue.com

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  The Lock

What can we expect at Alexander McQueen for Fall 2011?

“I was thinking about an ice queen. Someone strong and noble and romantically powerful,” said Sarah Burton

 Corseted hourglass silhouettes with board fox-fur shoulders. Perfect precision in every single detail down to the composition of the fabric. Romantic, demure, and striking. Burton embodied McQueen's limitless aesthetic seamlessly, but this time with slightly more delicate, feminine feel. 

 

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Runway, Vogue.com

  The Key

Meet Alexander McQueen's successor, Sarah Burton. 

 Sarah Burton grew up in Manchester, United Kingdom in a family of five children. She studied at Manchester Polytechnic before transferring to Central Saint Martins in London to study Print Fashion in 1997.  

Burton went on an interview for a position within Alexander McQueen. During the interview Burton remembers being asked if she "Believes in UFO's?"  by McQueen himself. She must have said something right because Burton joined the team as in intern in 1996 where she worked next to McQueen for the next couple years. After McQueen's death, Burton was appointed the chief creative director in 2010.

"The designer has no plans to replicate McQueen's signature theatrical shows. "That was very much Lee's territory - the spectacular show," she told WWD in September 2010. "In that way, I can't try and pretend to be Lee." -Vogue.co.uk