Alexander Wang

The Vault

Alexander Wang was at the top of his class at Parsons School of Design in New York City. Already by his sophomore year in 2005, Wang was crafting his first collection that he later found out would be his first of many successful lines to come. After the launch of his first complete womenswear line in 2007, which over 200 stores had bought, Wang created quite the buzz. In just a few short years to present day, Wang has racked up countless honors and awards such as the Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2008, the Swarovski Designer of the Year award in 2009 for Womenswear and in 2010 for Accessories, and lastly the milestone of opening his first flagship store this year in SOHO, NYC.

The Valuables

Three key elements to help identify an iconic Alexander Wang design. 

1. Timeless and Classic, "investment pieces" -Alexander Wang

Spring 2011 Runway, vogue.com

2. Luxury Urban Wear

Fall 2010 Runway, vogue.com

 3. Minimalist Color Palette, lots of neutrals and light hues

Fall 2010 Runway, vogue.com

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  The Lock

What can we expect from Alexander Wang for Fall 2011?

Quirky accessories such as snowboard goggle-like sunglasses with mink bands and fur-laden heels played up the cheekiness of Wang's Fall collection. Silks, satins, furs and sheers in black, white, gray and champagne adorned some of the most admired super models such as Lily Donaldson.

“It’s about poking fun at luxury and decadence and this idea of stereotypical wealth. One of the starting points was this rich bitch. She’s wearing her super satiny pajamas with the big fur coat and the boudoir sandals and then we’re just kind of putting it all together.” -Alexander Wang

Vogue.com

  The Key

Some brilliant backstage shots from Alexander Wang's Fall 2011 Runway show in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

http://models.com/mdx/?p=6426

Burberry Prorsum

The Vault

Thomas Burberry

Fashion guru or not, almost anyone can recognize the iconic Burberry plaid.

Most would be surprised to know that Burberry didn't start out as a super powerhouse of fashion. In 1880, Thomas Burberry invented the versatile textile, gabardine. Gabardine is a flexible, waterproof fabric specifically engineered for British weather and sport.  Burberry's gabardine fabric garments became outdoor-adventure icons, outfitting the first man to ever reach the South Pole, Ernest Shackleton. 

In 1914, British World War I military officers voiced their need for practical garments that they could navigate through the trenches in, leading to the birth of the Burberry Trenchcoat. The trench became the bridge between Burberry as a utility garment company to a fashionable, trend setting label. Movie stars Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn, facilitated this fashion transition by making the trench a trendy must-have item.

In the 1990's the famous beige plaid print made its appearance. It can be found wrapped on a luxurious cashmere scarf or hugging the inside lining of a Burberry trench and has become one of the brands most significant identifiers.

Burberry Plaid

Add caption

The Valuables

Three key elements to help identify an iconic Burberry RUNWAY design. 

1. Monochromatic neutral color palette

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010 Runway, Vogue.com

2. Strong outerwear presence, keeping true to the origin of the Burberry brand

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2011 Runway, Vogue.com

3.  Luxurious yet wearable

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010 Runway, Vogue.com

NOTE: "The standard plaid is still found all over the umbrellas, golf gloves, and luggage in the retail stores, but it's been banned from the runway." -Style.com

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  The Lock

What can we expect at Burberry Prorsum for Fall 2011?

Creative Director and Head Designer, Christopher Bailey, designed a plethora of  beautifully crafted coats and outer garments, truly making the Burberry Prorsum's Runway the main source for luxury, British heritage outerwear.  Silhouettes ranging from boxy over sized pea coats and the ever classic khaki trench, to tight and tailored military inspired jackets or mink dress coats with thick voluminous sleeves. The color palette was an ombre of color combinations from color blocking with bright primaries, to neutral earth tones with a  final transition to stark black and white ensembles.

Vogue.com

  The Key

Christopher Bailey, askmen.com

 

Meet Creative Director and Head Designer: Christopher Bailey, Spring 2002 - Present

In 2001, 29 year old, Christopher Bailey became the new creative director at Burberry Prorsum. With experience at elite fashion houses such as Donna Karan, Gucci, and Tom Ford; Bailey was quite the catch for the Burberry Company. Burberry's profits have spiked since Bailey's arrival and the Burberry Prorsum Runway has never been filled with so many fresh takes on classic outwear.

3.1 Phillip Lim

The Vault

 Phillip Lim, a paramount example of a man living the "American dream". 

In 1973, the Lim family migrated from Thailand to Southern California to escape the Cambodian War. Surprisingly at first, fashion was not Lim's initial passion. After working part time at Barneys in Beverly Hills, inspiration struck. He shortly obtained an internship with Katayone Adeli which turned into a sturdy career. At the age of 31, Lim moved to New York City to start up his own label. 

In the Fall of 2005, the 3.1 Phillip Lim collection made its first official debut at New York Fashion Week.

The Valuables

Two key elements to help identify an iconic Phillip Lim design. 

1. Understated Elegance

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2011 Runway

2. Perfect fit pieces, great for mixing and matching into any wardrobe

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  The Lock

What can we expect from Phillip Lim for Fall 2011?

 A more grown-up and romantic vibe, setting this collection apart from seasons past. The opening look was a very sophisticated and modern ensemble of toffee lambskin pants and a grey tie-neck pea coat. The rest of the collection carried on with breezy, defining elegance in shades of gray, green, navy and saffron.

Opening Look

3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2011 Runway

  The Key

Phillip Lim's success has been on a constant high ever since the launch of his first collection in 2005. In the past 5 years his brand has become available in over 50 countries and in 400 boutiques worldwide. 

In the year 2006, Vogue magazine and the (CDFA) Council of American Designers of America nominated Lim for the Fashion Fund award. Lim also was awarded first place in the Woman's Designer "Rising Star" category by the Fashion Group International. 

In 2007, he opened his first free-standing 3.1 Phillip Lim store in New York City. In the same year Lim won the CFDA Swarovski Award in Women's wear and became the finalist for the Fashion Design Award of Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum.  

3.1 Phillip Lim Boutique, New York City

Theyskens' Theory

The Vault

 Theory was founded in 1997 by Andrew Rosen in New York City. Rosen is the third generation fashion mogul in his family. His great grandfather founded Puritan Fashions Corporation in 1910 and his father, Carl Rosen is the original licensee for Calvin Klein Jeans.

Although Andrew got a rocky start in the career world as a University of Miami dropout; after his fathers untimely death Andrew was appointed the President of Calvin Klein Sport.  A few short years later, Andrew left Calvin Klein Sport and crossed over to Anne Klein becoming their new President and Chief Operating Officer.

 So how did Theory come about?

 Rosen sought partnership with Elie Tahari in 1997 to establish his own label, Theory. After creating a huge buzz about the label and creating a substantial profit, they decided to sell 89% of the company in 2003 to Link International for $102 million. Rosen is still keeping on the pulse of Theory LLC as CEO.

The Valuables

Two key elements to help identify an iconic Theyskens Theory garment. 

1. "American Wear-to-Work Basics", as simply put by Elle Magazine
 

Theyskens Theory Spring 2011 Runway, Elle.com

2. Muted color palette, neutrals and denim with subtle pops of color like deep raspberry and sage

Theyskens Theory Fall 2011 Runway, americanamanhasset.com

  "Ask our customers about their favorite fitting pants, the perfect shirt, the jacket they throw on over everything…they’ll tell you “It’s Theory.” - Theory.com

   The Lock

What can we expect from Oliver Theyskens at Theory for Fall 2011? 

According to Elle Magazine's March Issue, "Theyskens is a hero to a generation of women who long for a darker kind of beauty". At Mercedes-Benz Fashion week you could find just that; a deep dark palette with chic "cult-like" cuts.  A variety of vibes were sent down the runway from sheer gothic ensembles to Nirvana-esque street grudge. Theyskens collection is modern and raw, holding its own and making a statement for the Theory label.

 

Elle.com

  The Key

Meet Oliver Theyskens, Creative Director of Theory.

Theyskens began his own brand in 1997 in Belgian, coincidentally the same year Theory was established. With a robust resume filled with experience from some of the top fashion houses in the industry such as Rochas & Nina Ricci and a "Best International Designer Award" in 2006 by the CFDA under his belt,  Theyskens has become THE designer to watch in the next upcoming seasons.

Just this past November in 2010, Oliver Theyskens joined forces with  Andrew Rosen, CEO of Theory. Theyskens now holds the title of Artistic Director of Theory and Head Designer of Theyskens' Theory collections. 

Issa

The Vault

Daniella Helayel, Vogue.co.uk

While studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Daniella ISSA Helayel had a tough time finding the perfect dresses for her curvy Brazilian physique which inspired her to create her own. Daniella moved to London in 1999 and began creating the Issa label in 2001.

"The Issa philosophy is that their clothes can be worn from the beach, to the office and then onto the red carpet. They are the ultimate in a dress-up dress-down approach, to be slipped on to work with effortless chic any time or any day." -TheFashionInsider.com

      The Valuables

Two key elements to help identify an iconic Issa garment.

1. Vivacious Prints

Issa Spring 2001 Runway, Elle.com

2. Beautifully draped, typically in luxe silk jersey fabrics 

Issa Fall 2009 Runway, Elle.com

   The Lock

Issa's "Celebrations" collection for Fall 2011

Issa Fall collection was truly a "celebration" of all her recent accomplishments- clothing the new English princess-to-be, raising overall sales by 60% this year, and presenting a beautiful collection at Fashion Week. 

On the runway you could find a variety of lengths from flirty skater skirts to long sophisticated draped jersey knit gowns. Staying true to Issa, there were a lot of silk jersey fabrics but also an addition of heavier knits. Iconic vibrant prints paired with spicy pill-box hats, fur snoods and silk scarves.

Issa Fall 2011 Runway, Elle.com

  The Key

Royalty of Fashion or Royalty of England?

Issa's key to fame just recently occurred in tandem with the royal engagement of Prince William and Kate Middleton.

Kate Middleton and Prince William, RoyalDish.com

Kate sported a beautiful royal-blue Issa dress in her first official appearance with her fiance, Prince William. The exact "Kate Dress" sold out nearly INSTANTLY at the Harvey Nichols department store in London after the photos were released.

Kate pictured in pieces from Issa's collections, fashionfolio.wordpress.com